Jewelry Of Ideas

The brooches, necklaces and rings--the majority of which were made in the last 15 years--reveal how these contemporary jewelers have revolutionized the medium. Many take their cues from age-old jewelry conventions but transform them into expressions of our time. Others confront social, political or highly personal concerns using unconventional materials and techniques that range from traditional metalsmithing to computer-aided design.

Among the more than 100 featured designers are Giampaolo Babetto, Gijs Bakker, Friedrich Becker, David Bielander, Iris Eichenberg, Eva Eisler, Sandra Enterline, Arline Fisch, Thomas Gentille, Herman Hermsen, John Iversen, Daniel Jocz, Herman Junger, Jiro Kamata, Otto Kunzli, Bruno Martinazzi, Bruce Metcalf, Dorothea Pruhl, Wendy Ramshaw, Joyce Scott, Kiff Slemmons and Art Smith.

Descriptions of specific works demonstrate that while the mastery of materials and techniques is critical to the creative process, it is not an end in itself, but only the means to accomplish an aesthetic vision. Process statements from each designer and a full gallery of the jewelry accompany the narrative sequence of extraordinary, stirring, uncommon pieces from this consummate collection.